Mendocino and Back

A coastal route north from San Francisco offers Zen serenity, a bounty of beaches and a plethora of contented cows

THERE’S A TV COMMERCIAL that claims happy cows live in California. It’s true. I’ve seen some. They live on oceanfront property two hours north of San Francisco. It’s a stretch of coastline largely unexplored by visitors to the Bay Area. Most of us who visit northern California drive south to Carmel and Monterey, or inland for Napa’s wine country.

Trust me and the cows—this is better. The inspiring coastal drive north on Highway 1 is a serenity-inducing cruise of great diversity. From thick cypress trees canopied over winding, twisting 35-mile-per hour roads, to wide-open take-your-breath-away beach vistas, it changes every few miles.

I’m snapping pictures through the windshield of a 2007 Saturn Sky Turbo convertible— my ride for this two-day trek. This drive extends 150 miles up the coast, to Mendocino and back. From San Francisco I’m off to Bodega Bay—the location in Alfred Hitchcock’s 1962 film The Birds.

The Sky’s road-hugging low profile and tight handling is the perfect complement to the 15-mph turns necessary under sideways-swept cypress and giant redwoods. With satellite radio tuned to a favorite decade (never mind) and a five-speed automatic transmission that doesn’t require constant shifting in hairpin turns (but does have an optional manual mode), it’s easy to soak in the scenery and relax while driving.

North of the Golden Gate Bridge, the exit for Highway 1 drops down toward Muir and Stinson Beaches. The road changes immediately to narrow and intimate. In a few miles, there is a “Y” and a choice to turn right onto the Panoramic Highway—a 30-minute detour from the beach road—or stay on Highway 1, also called the Shoreline Highway. I choose the upper route for its amazing views of downtown San Francisco, and the narrow, haunting drive in dappled sunlight and forest around Mount Tamalpais State Park.

The Panoramic Highway rejoins the Shoreline Highway at Stinson Beach. There, the view changes to creamy sand beaches and white waves breaking on shore. The speed limit increases, and there isn’t another vehicle for several miles until a group of motorcycles buzzes up behind me and quickly passes.

Arriving at Bodega Bay at sundown, I check into the Bodega Bay Lodge & Spa. My room is a warm cavern of soft yellow lighting, with a large deck overlooking the curve of Doran Park and the bay. A bottle of Sonoma Cabernet is part of the room’s amenities, enhancing a perfect sunset view from the deck, with a fire crackling bedside.

THE NEXT DAY’S RIDE up the coast is Zen-like. Heading north from Bodega Bay, Milwok Beach, Arched Rock Beach, Schoolhouse Beach, Shell Beach and Blind Beach are only a few of the many stunning back-to-back, no-fee beaches with picnic tables and scenic views. I’m here in late March. The tourists haven’t arrived yet. One after another, each shoreline is coastal eye candy uncluttered by motor homes or tour buses.

The mouth of the Russian River opens to the Pacific Ocean 40 minutes north of Bodega Bay, and just beyond that is a portion of Highway 1 the locals call “The Grade.” This is where your heart starts thumping. Abrupt turns high above the ocean require 10-mph discipline. Happy cows giggle when they see you creep past—they have the right-of-way.

Almost 100 milesnorth of Bodega Bay is Mendocino, a charming coastal town with boutique shopping, wine tasting and art galleries. The historic Mendocino Hotel’s garden room is a perfect stop for lunch. Two tasting rooms facing the beach offer sips of Sonoma Valley wine. Afterward, a stroll through Wisdom House Gallery reveals a colorful display of local art and paintings.

Driving south from Mendocino on Highway 1 offers a different perspective in the late afternoon. Backlit by the sun, the views are quite different than those on the drive north. At the mouth of the Russian River, where Highway 116 turns inland toward Sonoma’s wine region, I turn east to Monte Rio.

The next stop is the town of Occidental, off the Bohemian Highway. Occidental’s quaint downtown includes Negri’s Original Italian Restaurant, rumored to be the best family-style Italian food outside San Francisco. The one intersection in town crosses an obscure road shooting up a hill into what looks like a residential area. It’s actually a shortcut to the ocean. Part of the route for the Amgen Tour of California (a bike race), Coleman Valley Road connects Occidental to Bodega Bay’s beaches. One narrow lane with views in every direction, it has one turn where a hand-painted sign tacked on a tree indicates “to ocean.”

Bright green fields dotted with cows frame the road all the way to the cliffs high above the ocean. References to the bike race are spray-painted on the steep portion of road above Bodega Bay. As with The Grade portion of Highway 1, a shift into manual mode locks the transmission into first gear for the slow tiptoe down.

Back in Bodega Bay, the fireplace and sunset are compelling after the long drive. But the fishing boats clustered in the harbor are a reminder that the seafood around here is served hours fresh.

I’m torn between two appealing options for dinner—quiet, fine dining at the elegant Duck Club restaurant at the Bodega Bay Lodge or the highly touted River’s End restaurant at the mouth of the Russian River, recognized for its extensive wine list and cuisine. Reluctance to change out of jeans and fleece dictates another choice—the casual Wharf Restaurant near downtown. The reward is an enormous serving of shrimp and prawn cocktail—as fresh as expected.

THE NEXT MORNING, I visit The Tides seafood market for wine, cheese and picnic items for a trip to Bodega Head. The peninsula that encloses Bodega Bay, Bodega Head is the ultimate ocean view. It’s a 10-minute drive from downtown, past Mason’s Marina. The drive offers a closeup look at the luxurious sailboats and pristine docks on Westshore Road. It also allows for a stop at Spud Crab—maker of the clam chowder voted number one in Bodega Bay. The owners have just brought in the day’s fresh catch of crab, and indeed, the chowder is scrumptious and completes the picnic basket.

Westshore Road continues out to the end of the peninsula, then climbs up to an ocean overlook. Bodega Harbor is below to the east. The steep coastline here looks ancient. The dark craggy lines of the massive old rocks that zigzag along the beach create a mysterious place below, with private coves and caves. The beach is loud here, with the booming crash of waves breaking on the rocks below. Open to the public, it’s the perfect place to sip wine, break bread and eat outstanding clam chowder.

But now it’s time to go. Driving back to San Francisco could be done two ways: back along Highway 1, on the stretch of coastline bypassed when I diverted to the Panoramic Highway; or inland on Highway 116 along the Russian River, through the heart of Sonoma wine country. The second route takes me to Santa Rosa and Highway 101. It’s a quicker way to the city, yet still a beautiful drive that allows me a few extra minutes in Bodega Bay. And time for a second helping of chowder, making me happy as a cow.

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