Rolling Through the Rockies

Canada’s mountains offer a dangerous, but visually rewarding, driving adventure.

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THE ANIMAL in front of my windshield looks at me nonchalantly as he crosses the road. The massive big horn sheep trots across the highway. Then he strolls parallel to my car window. His labored breaths are white puffs in the cold air. His massive horns curl around the sides of his head like earmuffs.

I watch him meander across the snowy field and wonder why there were no road signs warning drivers to be careful of this native. I’ve seen only signs warning of elk.

Outside a National Geographic magazine, I’ve never seen a dangerous wild animal in its element. But I’ve never been on an isolated highway like this one, lined with deep snow, curling between jagged mountain peaks. The mountains towering over this route make the Colorado Rockies look diminutive. It’s captivating, and a little scary.

We are driving through Alberta’s Canadian Rockies. It’s considered one of the more beautiful drives in the world, and most people come here between May and October, during the peak season. But I choose winter, when Canada’s national parks are heavy with snow. Our destination is Lake Louise in Banff National Park, where we’ll spend two nights at the Chateau Lake Louise and drive a snowy, frozen stretch of highway the locals call the “golden triangle.” We’re told it might be treacherous.

These mountains lure skiers and snow - boarders through April. The winter season is famously long, and the temperature here varies from well below zero to the balmy 17 degrees currently displayed, midday, on the temperature gauge of the ve - hicle we’re driving. My friend Mike grew up in Montana, and he’s offered to drive the snow-packed roads, due to my lack of experience. I’m grateful for the chance to shoot pictures from the comfort of the passenger seat.

Our 2008 GMC Yukon Denali is laden with features——many heat-related. They make this trip safe and, above all, comfortable. The remote ignition turns out to be the most valuable feature throughout our drive. A remote allows us to start the truck, warm up the interior and thaw out the glass before ever venturing outside——no ice scraping required. The Yukon’s heated seats and heated wiper fluid are lifesavers. It’s equipped with full-time, four-wheel drive, a navigational system that covers all of Canada, and satellite radio that never loses a signal throughout the trip. It’s the perfect ride for this adventure. Fully prepared with down jacket and fur boots, this thin-blooded adventurer is ready to drive a route that promises to be dazzling.

OUR FIRST DESTINATION is Banff, just east of Lake Louise. Outside Banff, over - passes have been built for animals to safely cross the road. The Bow River runs alongside Highway 1, alternating between rushing water gurgling over rocks to a solid stretch of silent ice. Tree branches heavy with snow drip icicles over the river. The highway offers a stunning drive, but in Banff, surrounded on all sides, the mountains make it intimate.

Snuggled in the center of a circle of towering rock, Banff’s Tunnel Mountain is the backdrop for the shops and restaurants of the ski village. Castle Mountain, at 9,075 feet, looms nearby, part of a circle including 8,274-foot Mount Norquay and 8,041-foot Sulphur Mountain. On Banff’s downtown Grizzly, Wolf or Lynx streets, mountains surround the boutique shops in every direction.

A quick stroll around downtown and we find The Bison, a highly acclaimed bistro that specializes in bison, maple pepper ham and smoked salmon sandwiches. We pack a picnic and head back to the maple-leaf sign marked Trans Canada Highway for the drive to Lake Louise.

Leaving Banff, the view of 10,463- foot Cathedral Mountain and the towering 10, 496-foot Mount Stephen are breathtaking. It’s easy to understand the awe that must have motivated the early explorers.

Chateau Lake Louise is an imposing shoreline property. We are given a topfloor room in the eight-story chateau, which overlooks the frozen Lake Louise and points directly across the water at Mount Victoria. After marveling at the vantage point, we retire to the warm lounge and dine on mussels in curry sauce.

From the lower floors, the frozen lake is bustling with hockey players skating furiously across the expanse of ice. Hockey, ice skates and ski gear litter the lobby. The Canadian World Cup is under way, and competitors are a boisterous element in the elegant surroundings. The chateau is cozy, and it’s tempting to wander the restaurants and shops on the property, but our drive is a high priority.

After a gourmet-inspired buffet breakfast the next morning, we set out for a full day’s driving. The white peaks are stark against the morning sky, and evening will come early this time of year. We’re taking the “golden triangle” loop that runs south on Highway 93 into Kootney National Park and the province of British Columbia. At the town of Radium Hot Springs, we will turn north and follow Highway 95 in B.C. through Yoho National Park and into the town of Golden. From there, we’ll rejoin the Trans Canada Highway east toward Calgary, through the Kicking Horse Pass, back to Lake Louise.

The speed limit for most of the highway is 90 kilometers an hour (56 miles per hour). On packed snow and ice, the round trip of 192 miles takes a whole day. Much of the road is gravel. We travel the speed limit for long stretches, but it’s quiet. Pulling over to take a photograph is easy. The silence is music.

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