Freeman Vineyards

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Freeman Vineyards 2005 Akiko’s Cuvée Pinot Noir

UNLIKE MANY a 19th-century romance novel, few fine wineries begin their stories with a shipwreck. But the tale of Freeman Vineyard very nearly did when, in September of 1985, Ken Freeman, a recent college graduate, took a job as a crew member aboard a sailing yacht headed from New England to the Caribbean. En route, Hurricane Gloria cut short the vessel’s tranquil voyage, and passengers and crew joined a house party ashore. There, Ken met his future wife, Akiko, who shared his love of fine food and wine.

Born in Tokyo, Akiko learned an appreciation of fine art from her grandfather, a distinguished professor. Akiko went on to earn a master’s degree in art history at Stanford, as well as an understanding of cuisine and fine wines, particularly the grand crus of Burgundy. After their marriage, the couple traveled extensively, indulging their shared passion among the celebrated restaurants and wineries of Europe, all the while planning one day to own their own vineyards. But when Ken, after earning his M.B.A. from Kellogg, accepted a position in Asia, fate whisked the pair off to Singapore and Hong Kong before landing them, finally, in California in 1997. Four years later, they at last acquired a small winery in Sonoma’s Russian River Valley, and their adventure in making Burgundy-style wines began.

Since the initial 2002 vintage, blending at Freeman has been a collaborative effort. Ed Kurtzman (Freeman’s winemaker), Akiko (the assistant winemaker) and Ken taste each barrel, choosing their individual favorites, which are then combined into three cuvées. The three then blind-taste these blends and select the best. Akiko’s blend has been the hands-down favorite for four consecutive years.

A taste of the 2005 Akiko’s Cuvée Pinot Noir ($48) reveals the sophistication of her palate——tutored in the subtleties of Burgundy by her grandfather and enlivened by an inviting spirit of adventure. This darkly saturated red wine exudes an elegantly floral perfume of rose petals and exotic tropical blossoms. The palate is drenched in boysenberry, red cherry and raspberry spiced with touches of cinnamon and clove. The acids reveal themselves gradually in the long, pronounced finish, while the refined, sturdy tannins ensure the wine will blossom with age.

Freeman, 707-823-6937; freemanwinery.com.

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Brett Anderson is senior vice president, editorial, for CurtCo Publishing.

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